Like most homeowners, you would probably know already some basic information on waterproofing. Waterproofing, of course, is basically making an area impermeable to or unaffected by water.
With today’s needs for more living space, a dry basement can become a very useful area. It can be a recreation room, a rest area, or an extra storeroom.
All these would depend on the quality of your basement. You would want it dry, comfortable and without the musty odor most associated with damp and moisture-laden basements.
By practice, most waterproofing contractors usually create some forms of drainage system in solving a wet basement. Drainage is critical, no doubt, in solving water problems.
However, homeowners should also know the limits of waterproofing. The waterproofing methods (interior and exterior systems) have their own advantages and weaknesses.
Interior waterproofing had been criticized due to the unregulated nature of the industry. Many less-than-credible contractors install systems without a thorough knowledge of their actions.
These could have been avoided if the job was done with the sealed system of basement waterproofing. Moisture could have been prevented from re-entering the homes, decrease humidity, and avoid mildew and molds.
Do it yourself
Once your basement leaks, you either call an expensive contractor or do it by yourself. If you have the right materials, do-it-yourself waterproofing can be simple and can save you time and money.
Today, there are several different products to help you in doing your waterproofing job. The following are some of them.
For many years, this had been one of the world’s favorites. It is highly effective because it penetrates inside the walls and floors. After some years, the crystals expand and seal it permanently.
Aside from being able to withstand very high pressure, it can be applied to any concrete surface. Application is simply mixing it with water with a brush or a roller.
First, a hole is drilled into the basement floor. Then, a probe is inserted into the hole to detect ground water.
Once found, the probe will suck up the water with its pump. The principle is that when water is removed, there is relief from pressure. Consequently, there would be no more problems with water seeping into any crack or weak spots.
This system is for poured concrete and block walls. In block walls, the water is mainly trapped in the block’s holes.
The main procedure is drilling the lowermost block layer where water collects. Drilling drains the water into the SquidGee Dry. There is no need to drill all the blocks.
The process is just as simple in poured walls. However, these walls are solid, unlike the block walls. The technique is to seal the cracks all the way to the “cold joints” (the meeting edge points of the wall and floor). The bottommost is left unsealed, and water is collected with the SquidGee Dry.
This is the cheapest of the alternatives, although the least reliable. The process is easy but time-consuming (dependent on the number of cracks you have to fill).
Chisel a U-shaped groove along the crack. Remove the debris and fill the groove with fast-setting hydraulic cement. Finally, apply the cement water-proofer, as directed on the product. All in all, waterproofing is not really that hard to do.
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